Nepal (Everest Base Camp)
I was nearly a broken man by the time I made it into Nepal. I had been travelling for 48hrs touching down in 4 different countries and not taking one step outside of an airport. It was madness and it was slowly becoming a bit hard on old head and body.. But I survived.
I learn't Kathmandu airport had been closed for 5 days after a Turkish Airlines flight misjudged a landing and nosedived quite a distance along the runaway. Whilst it was good no-one was hurt, it took nearly a week for the Nepalese government to source a machine big enough to remove the now useless plane. I'm told they sourced help from India in obtaining something big enough to remove it. Go Nepal!! Haha.
At the airport make sure you have $US40 and a passport photo ready for your tourist visa. It's a pain free process, just time consuming. And note that they only accept cash but luckily of all varieties...
Now in Kathmandu, feeling refreshed, showered and hygienic I can see why I endured the endless flying.. What a marvellous city. Both chaotic as charismatic and full of sensory overloads. Thamel or 'tourist town' is a maze of streets and lanes dominated by gift shops and restaurants. Trekking gear can be sourced without hesitation and booking agents are plentiful. The hanging prayer flags make it fun and colourful.
Be sure to take your time to wander because I can guarantee you'll get lost. But... getting lost is the best part.
Every lane is so incredibly different that you won't even care! On the plus side its reassuring to know that theres never a rickshaw too far away that can't take you home.
Kathmandu is very much a Hindu city with an electric mix of modern and Nepalese fusions. People gather, dogs bark, pigeons swoop and you may see the odd monkey or two. The streets are crowded and you find yourself dodging cars just as much as you're dodging fellow pedestrians. Odd smells of food and fumes fill the air. Old man sit and stare whilst women hurry around shopping and chatting. Children laugh, teens text, kids play and girls smile then shy away when you smile back. Its all a bit fo fun really.
Away for the madness I met up with a man I had been emailing previously called Dolakh. Together he was going to arrange my trip to Everest as pain free and precise as possible.
After spending just a few minutes with this lovely man I knew I was in good hands. His runs a small trekking company called Mountain Mart and I highly recommend him. He's very much polite, professional and honest. Through him I had my trip organised by the end of my first morning in Kathmandu. He arranged my guide/porter, the Lukla flights, my trekking permit, spare trekking gear, the lot. He was incredibly knowledgeable and left no questions unanswered. My guide was introduced to me before any transaction took place which for me was important. If I were to be spending 12 days with this guy I wanted someone who can communicate, who is knowledgeable, funny and laid back.
And at the end I got a free t-shirt with a huge Mountain Mart logo across the front. I promised Dolakh I would Instagram the shit out of myself and make him and his company famous. Haha. This made him very happy.
I now sit in a little vegan restaurant eating spinach pie accompanied by candlelight. The unavoidable power cuts make for pleasant dining experiences! I look forward to my adventure tomorrow.. I rather enjoy climbing mountains now, it's become quite the passion. May as well climb the worlds highest.
Oh I also met the most incredible man. He's 80 years old and trekking Nepal. He informed me of a business venture that he wants me to pursue, it's allowed him to travel the world and it's quite simply brilliant really. I'll keep you posted. Fingers crossed I can make a real go of it..
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Skip forward 10 days and i've now returned from the trek severely sunburnt and overwhelming satisfied. All I can say is, WOW what an incredible journey. Not many can say they have climbed deep through the worlds highest mountains but I am now one of them. Its a journey that will forever stay with me. An accomplishment i'll be proud of until I'm old an grey. Such surreal scenery I'll never forget, sounds that will forever serenade, air so fresh they made my lungs cry and mountains so large they simply take your breath away.
I completed Everest Base Camp within 10 full days of solid walking. Unless your fit and ready and physically able I wouldn't recommend this. Its tough, sometimes terrible and each step harder than the last. However it's a magical feeling as you slowly climb through lush green valleys to reach monstrous cliffs, over raging blue rivers to be greeted by the worlds highest mountains. Its a spiritual journey as well as one of healing, grit and determination, of self accomplishment and realising you're achieving the worlds hardest bucket list.
Everyones Journey starts at Lukla. The worlds highest airport, the worlds shortest runway, the worlds only sloping runaway and a runaway until 5 years again was only grass. You all cramp into a tiny propellor plane accompanied by a pretty nepalese air hostess. She'll give you ear plugs and candy. The flight sneaks its way up a narrow gap of mountains with impressive views of the Himalayas' in the horizon. Any touch of wind and the plane wobbles sideways. The nervous flyers all squeeze hands and pray to god, only opening theirs eyes once we've landed. They've totally missed out.
We cruise up the tiny runway, chuck a quick right and before you know it we're shuffled off the plane so a bunches of newbies can jump on. And when I say newbies I mean hasbies (or people who have already done the trek) they look tired, hairy and in a desperate need of a wash. So much to look forward to.
But Lukla is cute, its your first hit of real Sherpa life in the mountains but still very touristy. There's some cool stone homes with some rocky alleyways. Streets are full of goats, chickens and dogs. People sit, stare or nod and wish you Namaste. But you're too overcome by excitement. You're feeling fresh and fit. You've got your bag on your back, you're wearing your biggest smile and you ready, set, go! Bring it on Everest!!
Day 1 from Lukla to Phadking is relatively easy. Mostly flat and downhill. There's donkeys galore and boy oh boy do they smell. Be weary of endless piles of donkey crap that can make for a slippery smelly walk. But the sun shines on your back as you slither your way through many more little villages. The higher you get the more namaste's you receive. After about 5 or 6 hours you'll reach Phadking. A larger village with a liquid bar and pool table. Its perched in a valley with perfect views of the approaching mountains. An easy rest after your first day of trekking.
Day 2 & 3 we enter Sagarmatha National Park, also know as Everest National Park! Its a steady incline as you follow the river up towards Namche Bazar. You pass many waterfalls and skip over many streams. A tea break is pleasant with the roaring waters below. As we climb higher we witness our first snow capped peak, towering in at 5200m. Its a daunting feeling knowing you'll be climbing as high, if not higher in a next few days. But the path soon takes a sharp turn, over a suspension bridge and up a cliff. From here its a tough climb uphill for the next few hours. You give your body its first taste of whats to come. But you're excited. its only day 2. 'Come on"!!
Namche Bazar is the largest of the mountain villages in Sagarmatha National Park. Its positioned literally on the edge of a cliff. Its an incredible sight. Lodges, cafes and trekking shops hug the soil as farm terraces and local homes blend in to complete the towns appeal. Its position gives it an unreal view of the neighbouring peaks and its a prefect spot to watch the sunset in the evening. This is also the place you will stay to acclimatise. There's much to do with smaller villages, schools, museums, art galleries all within walking distance. Climb to Hotel Everest for uninterrupted views and your first real glance at Mt Everest. Enjoy a green tea and embrace the journey ahead.
Our time in Namche included Market Day, which saw people for all over come to sell whatever people are willing to buy. What was more incredible was watching the power of local men and women carry up to 30kgs of goods on their back. And age has no limits, with 16 year olds to gurning grandmas whacking the weigh on their backs and climbing 90 degrees up. What an inspiration to witness. The strength these women and men has boggled my mind.
I end the night watching a runaway ox with a bad attitude and taste my first Nepalese Dhal Bhat. Together it made for a humorous and delicious first introduction to mountain life in Nepal.
Day 4 to Tengboche and i've already started to form a small group of friendly trekkers. Leading the way is Ms Malaysia with her short shorts and 'can do' attitude. Mr Korea with his stern 'i'm gonna make it' face and mr New York, who left his wife in Manhattan to fulfil his dream of Everest. Oh and Mr Chinese, who spoke not a word of english but gave me a chance to brush up on my Mandarin. Nihoa Zao Shen Hao.
The walk to Tengboche is all up hill. Its tough and tiring and at some stages feels like it never ends. Crows crackle and huge Vultures swoop above your head as the terrain slowly turns from rock and dust to rock and snow. The air begins to chill and the views become intense. Cliff faces have changed into sky touching mountains with dreary fog clouds creeping in the wind. When you finally reach Tenboche and you sigh a big breath of relief. You're rewarding with 360 views the sweep around and include stunning views of Everest. A huge Monastery sits atop the hill and is designed in the same layout as Potala Palace in Tibet. Wander inside for Monk prayers, peacefulness, silence and some spiritual self healing.
Day 5 to Dingbouche and the mountains that seemed so far away are now staring you right in the face. How did you get this close already? Your breathing becomes more irrational and each step up hill becomes harder and harder. You start thinking 'geeze this was a crazy idea'. However you cross through moss filled wonderlands of lime green and gold. Through stunning Rhododrendon forests of pink and red that seem to light up the snow. Across suspension bridges that hang high above the Everest River that splits and spreads over the landscape. By the time you reach Dingboche you have climbed to 4400m high, its a cold night sleep and your heart and lungs really begin to struggle. Try and catch some much needed rest as you're going to need it.
Day 6 and Dingbouche was hit by a blizzard overnight that left 26cm's of new snow. Brand new shiny white snow. Both my water bottle and tooth paste had frozen solid and it was a real struggle to slide out from the warmth and protection of the sleeping bag. With the path completely covered I trusted the direction of my Sherpa/Guide Lucky. The crunch of the new snow and the squeak of our shoes added to the howls and whistles of the wind. It was a long and slippery trek to Gorak Shep 5100m but every breath of exhaustion is closely followed by gasps of sheer delight. We were now deep in the Himalayans and at the foothills of mighty Mt Everest. The peaks are now beginning to feel like gods, booms of sounds bellow from behind them, each as powerful as the next. Each peak so sharp they could rip the clouds and sky wide open. With such grandeur you feel inadequate, they encroach over you, suffocating you from every angle. Everest spills out an impressive glacier that shines bright blues as the sun reflects from its icy skin. The power of ice vs rock fight in a battle of good vs evil. The scene is soo dramatic and there is soo much tension, its really hard to take it all in. There is so much beauty in nature.
Day 7 and we've reached Gorak Shep, it was a sleepless night. Freezing and impossible to catch your breath. We started at 5am to make a freezing climb to Kala Pathar 5600m. With plastic bags over my shoes and my trusty iPhone torch to lead the way. Within moments it was apparent that the glow from the moon was enough to guide our way. Its dim lighting creating a cool ambience between the mountains and sky. As time ticked away and the moon dipped her head beneath the rock for yet another night, her big shiny sister began to shine rays of light and warmth from beneath. The mountains with every step seem to change in colour as she rose a little more. At Kala Pathar she finally reared her face as she burst behind Everest greeting the day for the first time.
What an incredible sight, the sunrise over everest. One I will never forget. One I am so proud of. To watch the sun as it hugged the peak of Everest, slowly lighting her up and unavailing her power as the worlds highest and mightiest mountain. This is something that will stay with me forever. Magical in every way.
That afternoon we stopped off at base camp for a cheeky photo before making our decent back down the mountain. I made a prayer rock at base camp, consisting of 7 layers. 7 prayers that I hope will hold true and bring light and happiness to those included. It will stay at everest and hopefully one day still be there when I return.
The journey back is somewhat the same as the way up, however you walk through an incredible glacier valley craved millions of years ago. Its the last opportunity for impressive photos and a chance to appreciate this remarkable landscape.
Its a tough journey, its not for everyone and you really have to appreciate the power of this place. The power of the mountains, the power of snow, the wind, the water. Appreciate the sherpa people, their determination, their strength, their honesty. Appreciate life, its spirituality, its connection to nature, love and healing. This has been one of the best experience of my life, i'm extremely proud of myself and the determination within me. I hope I can share the gift of nature and embrace it in my everyday life. I'm at peace and have found endless happiness.
Thank you Everest.
