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Japan

So....I'm in Japan. And it's pretty darn cool.

I've always wanted to come to Japan and now I'm finally here. And I really like it. No I really really like it.

It's a strange contrast especially after living in China for 6 months. Everyday I would hear how much the Chinese dislike the Japanese. "Oh I hate the Japanese" they would scream.. And knowing their history I could always sympathise. But now being in Japan I kinda rather like it. Sorry China.

Japan is super clean. Like squeaky clean, everything sparkles. Japan is organised. Getting around is easy. Public transport is easy. Japanese food is simple yet delicious and unlike China easy to understand. The Japanese are extremely polite and immensely courteous. They don't spit. The kids are uber trendy, fashionable and quite pretty. They enjoy cycling. Water is clean. They like weird and brightly lit things. Like today I got a cup of coffee and adopted a cat for 1hr. Anime is fantastic and loved by all. I really like Japanese architecture as well, their little homes and their little gardens are really cute and welcoming. Oh and they really do have vending machines on every corner.

But enough about that. Let's talk about my trip thus far. I flew into Osaka Kansai international airport. Nice little airport. Peach airlines charged me an extra $51 for baggage the bastards, so don't fly with them. Once we landed I got a visa on arrival, a quick finger scan, a photo and 'boom' I was inside Japan. Easy peasy japanesy really.

I then caught the JR West train from outside the airport to kyoto. Only cost me $20 and with only 2 stops before Kyoto the whole journey took just over an hour. How Simples. Oh and the ticket guards smile and bow to the entire carriage after they checked everyone's tickets. I thought that was really sweet.

Once at Kyoto station I jumped in a cab, chatted away to my happy old cab driver and checked into my guest house. The Japanese girls behind reception were insanely cute and extremely giggly. The guesthouse itself was modern, warm and welcoming.

It was late but I was hungry so I explored a little. I got some freshly made takoyaki, which was absolutely delicious. The old Japanese lady who made them couldn't of been more cute. Giggling away as she tried to speak to me.

With my hunger satisfied, I then walked to the Gion district. Known as the Geisha district. And it's very cool indeed. It's located next to the river and it's a maze of alleyways full of bars, clubs, shops and restaurants. Hot young Japanese girls hand out flyers whilst handsome young Japanese blokes entice you in. 'Apprentice' geishas can be seen without too much trouble, at night they're all tip toeing around learning how to be the best geisha's in Kyoto. The more experienced ladies, like an actual 'Geisha' is hard to find. I wasn't lucky enough to see one but I'm told some pop out between jobs and they're a sheer sight of amazement.

The next day I wandered the streets of Kyoto more. I was becoming more and more obsessed with the city. I was loving it. I could walk the endless alleyways for hours. The city feels so calm and it's genuinely safe (like cops are totally not necessary). There's little shops hidden about everywhere. Cool little coffee shops with ridiculously good coffee. Sweet shops with colourful green tea cakes. Shops that sell tea and tea cups. Bakeries, butcheries, hairdressers. Sushi bars, hipster bars, temples, zen gardens and tiny cafes so hidden you can hardly find the door.

That afternoon I spent time at Fushimi Inari temple. Famed for its orange and black passageway gates. You will literally walk through thousands of these endless gates when your there. It's quite an incredible sight really. These bright orange gates fill up every corner of the mountain. Japanese people ring bells, clap and pray, whilst tourists take selfies. It's very peaceful if you can spare a few moments away from the crowds. There's a nice view of the city towards the top as well. A must do if in Kyoto. Oh and I found out they ring the bells. Its a precaution so if your God (who may be napping) will wake from his slumber and hear all your prayer! Haha.

For lunch I went to a local park and sat in a zen garden and ate some sensational sushi (just the right amount of wasabi, just how I like it). It's the start of the cherry blossom season so touches of pink fill the trees. The plum blossoms which are equally as impressive are already in full bloom.

That afternoon I spent exploring the markets in downtown Kyoto. Non stop eating. I was tasting everything I could get my hands on. I eventually settled on a quirky little restaurant and ordered a delicious bowl of tofu and what looked like rice bubbles (cereal or not cereal, it was divine and it worked whatever it was). I finished off with some gyoza and a cold iced green tea.

Day two in Kyoto saw me journey through to districts of Downtown and Gion to explore the Higashiyama hills. Located on the foothills of west Kyoto, it's a prefect example of life in old Kyoto. As if walking back in time when Kyoto held its place as the countries capital for over a millennium.

My day started walking the narrow lanes towards Kiyomizu temple. A steedy incline up some very old streets makes for an enjoyable walk. Many Japanese girls can be seen wandering in traditional attire. The temple itself is pitched on-top a mountain so on a clear and sunny day you have sweeping views over Kyoto. There's a 'Love Rock' which will bring you endless devotion if thats what you need it. I then walked down hill along two traditional lanes that branch off from the temple (ninen and sannen-zaka). Perfect examples of life in old Kyoto, a bit touristy but full of shops, sweets, cafes, gardens and stunning Japanese homes.

I then headed to Maruyama park. A park famous for its zen like design and accompanying cherry blossoms. On a quite morning I had the park to myself only sharing it with a few other older women, a young couple having a photo shoot and a few colourful birds. It was a quite and pleasant experience.

Once finished I then headed back over to the geisha district for some lunch. Found a cute little restaurant with an old Japanese lady greeting me at the door. I order a delicious bowl of oyakodon, tofu and miso and couldn't of been more happier. My love for japanese food only increasing with every meal.

I then walked to Teramachi shopping district with its two undercover arcades of shops, bright lights and young Japanese hipsters. There's an impressive food market that turns left off Teramachi, come here to witness traditional Japanese food of many colours, shapes and smells. I bought myself some matching (which is finely powdered green tea cake) moist and sweet, it's probably best if you buy two.

To sum it up, Kyoto has been a great first introduction into Japanese life for me. It's a stunning city both modern and traditional. Nestled within the neighbouring hills with endless alleyways to explore. The streets are full of cherry blossoms and dare I say it 'power lines' (they're literally everywhere). People cycle so traffic is practically non-existent making it a pleasurable walking city. Food is plentiful and of the best quality. Shopping is endless. People are ridiculously polite, ridiculously good-looking and ridiculously giggly. Its got various districts offering different tastes. Gion is fun, Higashiyama traditional and downtown modern. It comes at no surprise that it's one of Japan's most loved cities.

Come and check it out, eat a tonne of food, try and find yourself a geisha and get immersed in local Japanese culture. Ps I saw a proper geisha walking in Gion yesterday. 'Twas so exciting, she was so pretty.

2 days later and I'm now in Fukuoka... Southern Japan. When I got to the airport in Fukuoka I caught a bus 2 hours south having no idea where I was going really. The bus was headed into the rural countryside of Asukura and I was getting off in a place called Hika. At bit panicked, I was constantly 'Google mapping' it, and even google was having trouble locating it. Bloody hell I thought, where the fuck am I going?

Checking the name of every bus station like a hawk, it eventually comes to a halt basically in the middle of nowhere. However it said 'Hika' so I grabbed my bag and I hopped off. And there he was, an old Japanese man wearing dirty overalls, a cheeky grin and a funny hat. There he stood waiting patiently next to his banged up work van, ready to pick me up.

Sooooooooo.

In trying to do something a bit different, I decided to become a woofer! What's a woofer you say? Well I don't really know, I've never done it. But basically, I signed up online, found a host, emailed my details and he accepted. I'm now going to be spending the next week or so working on his organic pear farm and living with his family in rural Japan. Sounds fun right?? Well so far so good. I have my own room and it's super Japanese with paper sliding doors, a zen garden and a bed on the floor.

The family consist of Mr Hayashi, his wife (currently suffering from a severe cold), their son (37 years old) his wife and their new born baby. No one speak English. Except the son. But I can't complain, how can I? I don't speak a word of Japanese. Communication is to a minimum but broken conversations are always hilarious. I've grown to love them after living in China. I'm kinda good at them to be fair.

The house is huge, but cold. There's no hot water and it's winter. Last nights bath (Japanese style), Mr Hayashi tried to explain but I'm still unsure on what I have to do. Theres a tap but it's over a large Turkish bath bench with a wooden mat covering it. There's two buckets on the floor. I'm guessing I just sit down and pour freezing cold water over myself.

The house is very traditional with a tiny touch of southern american redneck. You know like car body parts, bits of machinery and wind chimes made from plastic coke bottles. The farm is a 10 minute drive from the house and located in a stunning mountainous valley. We drive over a few sneaky rivers and around some stunning countryside. The sunsets on the farm are simply spectacular. Colours of red, pinks and purples shine across the blue sky shadowing the neighbour hills. Just the like Japanese flag the sun sits perfectly round and perfectly proud in the evening sky.

I got fed breakfast every morning at 7am, lunch is always at 12pm and dinner is always on the table at 7pm. The food is fucking out of this world. Yeah yeah I've barked on and on about how much I love Japanese food, but freshly picked, freshly cooked, home-made, traditional Japanese food is fucking unreal. And I don't even know what i'm eating really. They can't say it in English. So I just grab my blue chopsticks, my three bowls and start consuming without a second thought. It's kinda funny though, I'm the first woofer they've ever had from Australia and I don't think they've ever seen someone eat as much. Proudly representing our fat and hungry nation.

There is one exception though, it's called Natto, it's a soybean breakfast dish you have with rice. It has many health benefits but it smells like rotten cheese and it's really slimey. It looks like beans mixed with camel saliva. It's a challenge for the nose and the eyes!!

My first day on the farm went well. I painted tree stumps. Actually it was quite boring. But the other workers kept me entertained. There's an older Japanese women and she looks exactly like my grandmother except more asian obviously. I kept turning my head and staring at her. I think she was a little creeped out but being typically Japanese she was too polite to say anything. The other is a chubby teenage girl, she wears a hoodie and keeps calling me handsome. She likes to follow me around the farm and I think she has a crush on me. I share my fuit with her in hope she will leave me alone.

I'm also trying to learn a bit of Japanese, actually it's imperative I do and to be honest it's a fun language. Mandarin looking back was soo hard. Plus in Japan they all call me Luke San. I find that nice. It has a nice ring to it...

It's been a few days into rural life and this afternoon I experienced one of those 'Oh my god moments'!! You know those times when you're just like "wow, am I really here". After another pleasant day of hard work, blue skies and fresh air, Mr Hayashi decided to take me on a bit of a detour before returning home. We hopped in his little white van, we took a sharp left, then a sharp right and with much joy we proceeded to drive up the side of a mountain.

As with all mountain roads, it was an S bend after an S bend and Mr Hayashi buzzed around at full throttle like he owned the road.. The drive was insane, bamboo forests as high as the heavens with the afternoon sun softly sneaking through. The top was incredible. 180 degree views of the Asukura Valley with the Kyushu snow peak mountains in the distance. Impeccably silent, a town frozen in time, the river slithers its way through the heart of the valley and meets the dipping of the sun. What an incredible sunset.

That's when it happened.

I was looking out at the purples, reds and yellows as the sun was setting thinking,

"boy oh boy, am I really here, how bloody spectacular is this and how bloody lucky am I"

It's what I love about travel, there is so much beauty in this world. It truly is a gift to see just a tiny fraction of it. That night I slept like a baby!

It's a few weeks in now and my time on the farm has come to an end. It's my last night and tomorrow I fly to Tokyo. It's been a pleasant experience, rural life in Southern Japan is definitely relaxed and peaceful. My host family have been very welcoming and made my stay extremely comfortable. My only regret was my inability to speak more Japanese. It would have been nice to hold a decent conversation and learn more from the Hayashi family. However whats important is the food. Ohhhhh how I'll never forget the delicious home cooked food. It literally has been some of the tastiest dishes known to man. I'm thinking of stealing his daughter-in-law and forcing her to cook for me in Australia.

That afternoon I flew intoTokyo and its wet. Its rained the entire time I've been here, severely limiting much of what I can do. The imperial gardens was closed, the mori centre art museum closed, observation deck closed, the fish markets closed. What's a boy to do in Tokyo when it's pouring rain and everything is closed?

I spent my first day in Tokyo exploring the city by foot with my trusty umbrella. As with much of Japan the city it spotless, well organised and thriving, so easy to walk. I'm in Asakusa which was the old prostitute part of town but is now a grid system of alleys, boutique shops and sushi bars. The hostel is great fun and the staff are more than welcoming. I do have to give a massive shout out to my roommates Alex, Jennifer and Gonzales. A trio of American, kiwi and Argentinian. Laughs were non stop with these guys and it was great to share this amazing city with such a fun group of people.

When your in Tokyo you'll no doubt spent time at the following places, Asakusa, Roppongi, Shibuya, Shinyuku and Ueno.

Roppongi is super modern with endless bars and clubs, the mori tower offers views, art museums, a shopping centre and a cinema. I spent an afternoon watching the latest anime film in Japanese. A good little film about hippos that rob pirates and holiday in the French Riviera.

Shibuya has the infamous pedestrian crossing where thousands cross at one time. Have your video camera ready! It's also famed for attracting Japan's younger, hipster crowd. Here you'll find all the big fashion names under brightly lit neon lights! Have your Yen ready as you're bound to buy something cool in Shibuya!!

Ueno is famous for it museums and pretty parks. The Tokyo National Museum was perfect for a few hours out of the rain and a brief history lesson on Japan. Do this to feel cultured!

And lastly Shinyuku. Here you should get a bite to eat, drink in a tiny '6 person' bar and witness the craziness of the Tokyo Robot Show. Its a spectacle of sheer amazement! Like Shibuya young crowds gather and its an electric mix of the weird, the colourful, the wonderful.

But it's now 2am, I fly out in 4 hours but stupidly I'm still up talking food with Jennifer!! I've finally found someone as obsessed with Japanese food as me. But to finish the night we had dinner in a trendy basement restaurant in Shinyuku, me and the crew devoured some delicious Japanese food and said our goodbyes. It was a nice, relaxing way to end a great time in Tokyo! Gonna miss this cute, crazy, clean city and my new found friends.

Thanks for such a great time Japan.


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