Uzbekistan (Central Asia)
Where Russia meets the East, meets Persia meets the West.
Central Asia, the mysterious unknown, the untouched melting pot between two great powers. A bunch of nicely tucked away 'Stans' that connect the oriental east to the dominating west. Consisting of Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, this mostly undiscovered part of the world holds vast history and culture with some of the worlds greatest conquerors dominating this land and leaving their mark.
I spent time smack bang in the middle of this unique part of the world in Uzbekistan. Flying from London Heathrow I took a direct 7 hour flight with Uzbekistan Airlines. A mainly empty economy section, I could easily take up three seats for this over night flight for a somewhat awkward sleep. Although no screen for entertainment was offered, what they lacked in fun they made up in food. For dinner I was served just about a full roasted chicken with rice. I was happily satisfied until I overheard that business class passengers received there own ipad for the journey. A tad jealous there.
Arriving early morning the air was bleak and the surrounding lifeless. Tree's seemed stripped of their spring foilage and to shiver in the winter air. Passport control inside the airport seemed overly strict yet successful. You will need to pre arrange a visa before arriving, which can be done on-line and submitted to your nearest embassy. The visa lasts for 15 days only and costs £50, a 30 day visa costs around £57. You will need at least 2 pages in your passport.
Upon arriving into the capital Tashkent I was of course excited but had no idea what to expect really. There seemed to be a lot of people just hanging out but they all seemed friendly enough.
The drive through the city immediately draws your attention to the road. Shockingly bumpy and in parts completely ruined. However if you ignore the roller-coaster ride through its wide streets, you can admire a mixture of old meets new, poor meets rich architecture. A majority of its housing is Soviet in design as the city suffered a major earth quake in 1966 which destroyed much of its past history including its buildings. Its this Russian feel that continues throughout the entire city as much of it was restored when the Soviets planned to build a 'model soviet city'.
The city is clean, and in parts quite modern. It can also take claim to having the only underground train line in all of Central Asia. Very green, with large squares, parks and markets, the city offers everything you would expects from a large hub. Strangely though the Uzbeky people seem to love their water parks, with one on just about every corner. I think a few days in Tashkent would be enough to get your first initial feel into Uzbeky life.
Uzbekistan was once rich in history due to its prime position on ancient trading routes between the east and the west. Linking countries like China, Mongolia and India, to that of Persia, Europe and Northern Africa. Its most famous trading route 'the Old Silk Road' allowed for invasions of trade rich nations to build magnificent cites throughout its tiny borders. To get a feel of life during theses times many head to the old walled city of Khiva, perfectly restored and oozing with culture. Some say its where the old silk road was born. Located south west of Tashkent local flights to Urgench depart from the capital daily.
Khiva.
Like a open air museum. Khiva is a maze of unlimited mosques, minarets and madras's. At first glance its massive stone, brick and mud walls remind you of something like a Medina on steroids. Huge in size with only just a handful of gated entrances, your eyes automatically become impressed with what's ahead.
Pay a little camera fee at the main entrance and begin your journey inside. Straight away your punched in the face by the worlds widest minaret. Man its big. Perfectly mosaicked in blues, aqua's and greens, its stumpy but full bodied and impressive none the less. Continue wandering and you soon get lost in the vast history of this place. Madras's (or old universities) scatter the streets, minarets seem to grow in the distant sky and pop your head into many of the mosques to watch the local Uzbeks go about their daily prayers. Remembering to always remove your shoes and turn your voice to as soft as a mouse.
There are so many remarkably maintained palaces to discover. Where life of the royals was once opulent. They offer a look out point with a amazing views over the entire city. A must to end a perfect day of exploration. Its also good to know that within these walls there are local markets selling everything from Uzbek music to hats and souvenirs with an odd cafe for when your tummy rumbles.
Bukhara.
Journey back along the 'Old Silk Road' towards to old town of Bukhara. The 5th largest city in Uzbekistan with a thriving Tajik population. Its just as famous as Khiva and arguably as stunning. With its Mosques and attractions scattered across the city, a hired driver is recommended. A place to start would be Central Park (no not that one) Central Park Uzbek style. Here is a good place to start exploring the majority of what Bukhara has to offer. The park itself has a popular theme park, mind you its a little out dated and in parts quite rusty (so ride with caution). This may just be the scariest theme park you'll ever go to.
Continue along and you'll see kids, mums, teenagers, couples all going about there day. An odd mosque or monument here and there, you'll pass a large lake which will lead you to the smell of fresh bread baking in the markets ahead.
Bukhara markets are manic with locals buying and selling everything from goats heads to sugary sweets. Go crazy in here and try some local cuisine. Whip out your uzbeky Som (the local currency) and put your taste buds in heaven. You'll find the locals are more than happy to share their most recent purchases with you as long as you look to be enjoying yourself.. And the bread you must try Bukhara bread, is just divine.
Depart the market and head towards Bukhara fortress also know as the Ark. Home to an internal city, a royal play ground used as a fortress until the soviet invasion in1920. Inside wander the streets and marvel at the city, maybe pop into the museum for a brief history lesson. But continue through to Po-i-Kalan, with its impressive madras facing an even more impressive Mosque, and not to mention its 'tower of death' minaret. You can easily spend an afternoon exploring this site, enjoying time with the locals and admiring the power of religion. Come sun down I guarantee you'll have a kink in your neck. Your head will be in the clouds consistently looking up at the sheer size and beauty of these buildings. Behind the Po-i-Kalan, is a nice car free old town with plenty of shops, hotels and restaurants serving bowl after plate of uzbek cuisine.
Samarkand.
Simple stunning.
The home of Astronomer Ulugh Beg, Registan Square and many of the worlds most valuable mosques. Its in Samarkand that you'll fall in love with Uzbekistan. With the Tajik Mountains dominating the landscape this tucked away little city has so much to offer. The local children fly kites colouring the sky, couples kiss in the parks, cars juggle past the wide tree lined streets and parents spend there hard earned som down the many shopping arcades. Its in Samarkand you find the countries best restaurants, the loudest and trendiest bars, the flashiest hotels. Its in Samarkand you climb mosques, wash your sins, say your prayers and dodge indian gypsy's. Its in Samarkand you'll remember why you came to Uzbekistan. Spend a good time here, its well worth it, there is something to stimulate even the simplest of minds, and you'll thank yourself that you did.
This place will leave you breathless.
Thank you Uzbekistan
